Recently on Twitter we were asked if we had taken part in the “My 7 Links” feature from Tripbase. A week or so later we appeared in Wired2theworlds post and they nominated us to do exactly the same. So we both sat down together and decided what previous posts fitted the following criteria…

Your most beautiful post…

The post that sprung straight to our minds was our Koh Kong Island tour in Cambodia.

We loved everything about this part of our travels through Cambodia…Bartering with Mr T to arrange our own personal tour with two other travellers Carl and Ali, we arranged a tour that doesn’t usually happen over 2 days. We had two devoted locals one acted as our tour guide, the other as the boat driver. We visited the most desolate, untouched beaches either of us have ever experienced and swam in crystal clear blue water. We had every beach completely to ourselves and ate amazing fresh seafood, barbecued and prepared by our two trusty Cambodian friends. To top this off we stayed at a very local floating fishing village, played with the children, visited their school, played pool with the locals and eventually stayed in one of their family homes. This was a truely authentic Cambodian home-stay experience, far far away from any tourists.

The second part of the blog post for Koh Kong is featured here, just in case you didn’t see enough beauty in the first one!

Your most popular post…

We were pretty happy to discover that our most popular post (according to Google Analytics) was from our Yuanyang Rice Terraces visit in Yunnan Province, China. The bus journey from Kunming was as ever a little scary in parts and often delayed along the narrow mountain roads, and when we arrived in Yuanyang there were no views, only fog! This is very normal for this part of the world though, often the valleys are deep-set in very thick fog, but when the fog lifts the rice terraces reflect all the light around in their pools of water stretching out for miles. This is a breathtaking part of the world, with a very strong traditional and cultural heritage stemming from ancient hill tribe minorities. It is one of the highlighted things to do in China so perhaps this explains why it has been our most popular blog post. Sunny’s Guesthouse is also recommended in the Lonely Planet so this may have helped!

Your most controversial post…

We haven’t really gone into too much controversy whilst travelling through Asia, there are many areas we could have touched on with regard to Communist run governments but we weren’t there to be political journalists! However whilst we were in Vietnam staying in Mui Ne on the coast we did experience first-hand a little bit of uneasy Police action. Two policemen decided to stop us not long after we had set off on a hired motorbike for the day. Their reason being that we didn’t have a Vietnamese drivers license! To cut a long story short, TET was one week away and we were told after our shared $50 dollar fine with the bike owner that this sort of thing does happen quite frequently around the National Holidays as the Police are in effect collecting their beer money in the form of fines!! Thanks for that one! This story features in the second part of the post.

Your most helpful post…

We’ve written a few tips and tricks posts, reviews and recipes from our cooking course experiences and even offered the chance for one lucky follower to win a print from our travels! But the most helpful post would be our Top 5 tours in Asia. We’ve gone into who we booked it with and why, the costs, what we thought was good, bad and so on. We didn’t always choose the obvious tour with the obvious tour operator so we were really happy with the tours we chose and wanted to share this with the rest of the travelling community.

A post whose success surprised you…

Not an obvious choice when it comes to written content and the response we received, but the post focusing around our stay in Luang Prabang, Laos has proven to be very successful. This is down to the imagery that we shot whilst we were staying there. We ended up staying longer in this quaint World Heritage town, and shot some really atmospheric photography centred around colour, texture and mood along with some great documentary work of locals and tourists in and around the place. We’ve also had one image accepted for an International Award and our first print sale came from some imagery contained within this blog post.

A post you feel didn’t get the attention it deserved…

We were blown away by how magical a place The Summer Palace really is. We loved our imagery from our day here, very atmospheric with layers of mist encompassing ornate hand carved palaces, bridges and pagodas. Very easy to get to if you take the metro there which means it only costs 20p each way!! The site is huge, and we could have easily spent 2 days if not longer to capture the sheer essence of the Summer Palace site. Most people visiting Beijing will focus on the Great Wall, Tiannamen Square and the Forbidden City but we think The Summer Palace should be way up there on that list!!

The post that you are most proud of…

Perhaps an obvious choice but we are truly proud of our very first post from Japan! This shows us setting off from the UK and records our first day as we arrived in Tokyo. We were both jaded from jetlag and the Leica was still an exciting new tool for us to photograph with. On the Tokyo metro we snapped away discretely at our fellow passengers, managed to go the wrong way, and had our first taste of authentic Japanese noodles! It was all so new and exciting back then and we were on a high with street photography, getting the first travel blog-post out and starting our journey.

Thanks to wired2theworld for the nomination, we both hope you enjoyed our 7 links. Here are our five nominations…

• Totaltravelbug.com

• Worldtravelguide.net

• blog.networkosaka.com

• Good.Is

• weblogtheworld.com

The bus was due to depart from Siem Reap at 6am and we were informed to be at the ticket office for 5.30am. We arrived on time and several other travellers were waiting for the bus which was a medium sized coach but enough room for everyone on board, even if the bags were all thrown on the backseats! We paid $8 each for our tickets which was the cheapest we could find to Kratie with a change of buses in Kompong Cham, Doug and Emma were heading for Ban Lung and had to pay $19 each for the VIP bus, hotel pickup and a breakfast. It started in the usual way, drive around the area for at least an hour picking up passengers and packages to transport and then finally one last stop, it was to pick up Emma and Doug from a tuk-tuk, two hours later than they should have set off on the coach. Maybe the bus at Kompong Cham will be a VIP bus we thought!?

After 5 hours we arrived in Kompong Cham for our next bus connection and to all head off in different directions. The bus never materialised, either it left before we arrived or was non-existent, so we had to hassle the “travel coordinator” from our bus about what to do as the station office was no use and the bus driver had no inclination of trying to help. He arranged for us to go with another bus company on the other side of town, so the bus dropped us there. We would have to wait for 2.5 hours until the bus arrived so most of the stranded passengers (about 8 of us) headed for some food, fried rice with beef or noodles was pretty much the only option. Helen wasn’t feeling too good so she had plain boiled rice.

Finally a bus arrived, which incidentally looked pretty swanky, and we were informed we were all on the bus as it would stop at Kratie and then proceed up to Ban Lung. However there were not enough seats or luggage space in the hold on the coach so 5 people had to sit on their bags in the isle. Luckily people disembarked fairly quickly at random stops along the way so we all got seats within the hour. After a long journey we finally arrived at Kratie with an ounce of sunlight left in the sky and we found our preferred option for accommodation, the Balcony Guest House, over looking the Mekong River. Success, they had rooms with shared bathroom for $5. The room at the front of the building with a double bed was very large and had a huge ceiling with fan, it felt very Mediterranean in style and we loved the 70′s retro concrete building. We didn’t go far that evening and opted for some food from the Balcony’s restaurant which was pretty nice (real Heinz Baked Beans we think!!), but a bit overpriced for the portion sizes we received, washed down with some homemade Ginger Ale which tasted pretty boozy!

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We got up at 4.30am and would have been ready to leave by 5am if Helen hadn’t contracted a pretty bad tummy bug over-night, hmmm we weren’t sure if she’d get through the day so in went the Imodium and a re-hydration sachet and we hoped that it wouldn’t spoil things too much. Deciding to take it a little more leisurely than the night before we arrived at Angkor Wat at 5.45am and made our way into the temple site. It was already rammed with tourists all lined up along the front walls, smaller shrines and the lake at the front of the Wat. There must have been at least a thousand people there already, we hung around there for a bit and then decided to go into the temple itself and took in the warmth of the light on the buildings as the sun came up. There weren’t many people inside the grounds of the temple so it was very peaceful and away from the mass of tourists at the front. We walked around the grounds for about an hour and then went back to the front to find that most people had left and were missing the beautiful sight of the sun starting to peep over the huge pagodas in the middle, very strange!

After a croissant or two (for Dave) we rode the 13km journey back to Ta Prohm, this time we were able to get into the temple site. There were quite a few tour groups there but didn’t seem too busy when we walked around the site. This is the one you’ll see in all the photos…the one with the tree routes entangled around the old temple ruins. WOW! It really is an amazing site, they are leaving it to allow the trees and nature make their impressive marks, although there is some construction work going on. We managed to avouch the tour groups by going off in other directions. We ended up spending over an hour at this site and loved it.

Moving on from Ta Prohm we cycled along the route to Ta Keo this time climbing up the steep steps on the side of the temple up towards a tower that takes you 50 metes in height. There are wonderful views from the top and we managed to find ourselves a spot in the shade on the side of one of the towers where we people watched.

Following the route along we cycled through The Victory Gate and parked up at the north-east side of the central area of Angkor Thom taking in the Terrace of Elephants, The Terrace of the Leper King and Phimeanakas. All impressive and in the heat of the midday sun again seemingly missing the tour groups and main bulk of visitors. Following on from this we cycled only a little further to Bayon where we spent around an hour taking in the 216 enormous grinning faces built by the King of the God Kings; Jayavarman VII around the 13th century. It’s hard to imagine these enormous temples being built and the amount of effort t must have taken, each bettering the other it seems impossible that man was able to create these temples one after the other.

Our last stop on the route back to Angkor Wat was Phnom Bakheng and took less than 5 minutes from Bayon. There is a path up a small hill to this temple but as it is the highest temple on the site when we reached the top we were rewarded with fine views across the forests over other temple sites and Angkor Wat was creeping above the tree tops. This would be an ideal place to see the sunrise or set over the area as there are good views from both sides, the only downside being that nearly all tour groups will head there at around 4.30pm to get a good spot for the sunset. It’s not a huge temple either so we imagine it would be very cramped and difficult to get a good spot, so we left at just after 4pm and already the buses were starting to park up and the food stalls were waiting in anticipation.

On our way back we stopped off at Angkor Wat one last time and pestered some tourists into taking some photos of ourselves as all day either one of us was photographing the other and we had none together. We stayed for a short while and then decided to head back to Siem Reap, it had been a long day and we’d managed much more than we thought we would have been able to, Helen was also ready for some rest.

Back in Siem Reap we once again ventured to the Blue Pumpkin to stock up on breakfast, ate out with Doug and Emma and then walked around the very contrived, tourist night market before going back to get ready for the next off. We did enjoy Siem Reap with our main reason being that Angkor Wat is a very impressive and amazing site to visit, Siem Reap itself though very much felt like a Greek holiday Island resort. The market was almost too clean, the night-market appeared to be made from some kind of film set and most restaurants charge a lot for the pleasure. We were happy to be moving on.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

The bus journey from Battambang to Siem Reap took around 3.5 hours and opting for a cheap ticket, only cost us $4 each. Again packed with locals in every corner of the bus we stopped a few times along the way for food, pick-ups, toilets, smoking and so on. We figured in English time and transport this journey would probably take under 2 hours.

So we were in Siem Reap earlier than expected and were dropped off quite centrally just down from pub street and opposite the river bank. We knew which guesthouse we wanted to go to as Doug and Emma were already there and paying a good price. We asked at the tourist information who were sending us off in completely the wrong direction so instead of following their route we took a tuk-tuk to where we wanted to go. He was young and had no idea as to where the hotel was, he struggled to say the name properly and stopped a few times to ask others where it could be, it turned out the hotel was less than 2 minutes walk from where the bus originally dropped us off. We couldn’t believe it but paid him a dollar in good will all the same, he was a good laugh so it didn’t bother us too much. We managed to get a room at The Angkor Park guesthouse for $7 and that was that. Later on we explored the market and sorted out more travel arrangements for getting to Kratie our next stop after Siem Reap, we also looked for some decent bikes to get us to Angkor Wat and back.

We settled on some mountain bikes from a place a few doors up from the guesthouse, we got two bikes for $5 for a day and a half rental, this seemed fair. Once we got them we cycled to the Angkor Wat ticket office which took around 15 minutest to get to, it’s really easy heading straight out or Siem Reap towards Angkor and the ticket office is on the right. We got in the queue at around 4.30pm and picked up the tickets at 5pm when the offices opened, by this time the queues were very long so we timed this well. We’d decided to get a one day ticket to the site but if you buy it the day before you can get the sunset for that same evening, so in theory you can end up with 2 sunsets and a sunrise at Angkor Wat if you get your timings right. We didn’t quite manage this, the main reason being that we didn’t want to head straight to Angkor Wat itself and instead wanted to go to Ta Prohm which we’d read shouldn’t be too packed for sunset. The only problem was that we didn’t plan on the gates to the temples closing at 5.30pm, so when we got there after a fast bike ride at 5.31pm we were told we couldn’t go in. This was very annoying and could only be our fault for not checking on times but we had cycled around 13km to get there and couldn’t event take a peak. With sulks we plodded back to Siem Reap on our bikes and made sure that the next day was going to go our way!!

Back in Siem Reap we met up with Emma and Doug and made our way to the Blue Pumpkin bakery, perhaps the best thing going in Siem Reap! At 8pm they have a half price shelf and most croissants, pain-au-chocolat and breakfast pastries go. We took advantage of this and stocked up for the next day, we then went to a local restaurant for some decent food.

Tomorrow is Angkor Wat, up early and ready for a long day in the Cambodian sun!

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We got an early bus to Koh Kong, although as per usual it took over an hour to leave the city and then we were still stopping along the way to pick up other passengers, many of whom didn’t have seats so were sat on plastic chairs in the aisles. After around 5 hours or so we landed in Koh Kong at a bus stop a little way out of the main streets, tuk-tuk drivers once again were hassling us to take pick up into town, but we knew from the scale of the map that it wouldn’t be too far to walk. We met Ali and Carl who’d been traveling mainly in India on the bus and we all decided to walk in together. We landed at The Dugout Hotel, which is quite easy to find on the main street leading towards the market. The manager is Australian and pretty helpful when it comes to advice in the area, we opted for a room that was more than we were hoping to pay but thought we’d just stay there the one night. They have a small pool there too so we were keen to go in for a dip to cool down from the afternoon heat.

Later on we met up with Ali and went to have a chat with a local eco-tour operator ran by a friendly chap called Mr T, his office is located at Dugout, and they are owned by the same guy who runs the Oasis Bungalow resort a little way out of town. We found out about tours on offer and what was possible for us to do and see on Koh Kong Island, after going back and forth and realising we couldn’t stay on the Island, Mr T made a few calls and pretty much made up a tour for us on the spot. We could take a 2 day boat trip to Koh Kong Island, visit the beautiful beaches, have barbecues on the beach, all of our food and stay at a fishing village called Alatan that is connected to the island via stilts and wooden bridges. For the 4 of us to go it would cost $55 each! This was a good price considering the tours we had paid for in Vietnam. So we agreed and decided to leave the following day. If you do go to the tourist office at The Dugout please note that this isn’t a tour they do on a regular basis so don’t expect it to be advertised. They offer other types of tours including jungle treks and mountain biking in the area, Koh Kong itself doesn’t have much going on, it’s a small town which can be used as a handy base to go off and explore.

We were picked up at 8am and taken to the harbour where we had a boat, driver and guide waiting with us along with a fridge full of food. It was a long boat that they had decked out for our comfort, Mr T came along to make sure everything was ready and set up for us and off we went. The first part of the boat trip took around 2 hours and on the way we even bought our fish from a local fisher-mans boat! We took a brief stop at beach number 1, we all jumped off the boat and went for a swim in the crystal clear waters. The beach was beautiful with no-one else around so we were excited about going to the further afield beaches.

After around half an hour we carried on towards beach number 3, here we stopped and the driver threw in the anchor. We had until around 4pm here, and so we swam, sunbathed, ate a fantastic fish barbecue meal, swam some more, the guide built us a shelter from the sun, Carl tried to catch a crab and so on. All in all it was absolutely gorgeous, we had the whole place to ourselves, the sea was beautiful and clear and it was so serene. At last we had found a paradise. We had heard that not many people come to Koh Kong Island other than on day trips because the military operate the Island so it’s not the safest place to stay, also the trips only go when there are more than 4 people so this meant we didn’t see any other tourists, only fishing boats.

After a lazy afternoon on the beach we got back into our boat and made the hour journey to Alatan fishing village. We weren’t expecting what awaited us at all. The village is build up of around 50 or so houses all built on stilts going away from the Island for around 1km. As we arrived many local children were waiting for us, all shouting hello and smiling and laughing nervously in anticipation of our arrival. We instantly felt very humble and privileged to be there and were taken into the house which would be our base for our stay. As soon as we got inside the children were posing for photographs, asked Dave to do some English spelling and took us up onto the Island where their school is based. We were quite overwhelmed by the whole experience, they were so happy for us to be sharing their home with them, showing us around their school and attempting to speak English with us. The photography opportunities here were fantastic.

After an hour or so of playing with the children we sat down for dinner and enjoyed more fish, rice, salad and fruit. We had previously seen two full size snooker tables in one of the houses a little further away from where we were and asked if we could play some snooker/pool. We have no idea how easy or hard it was for them to get those things in there, we were amazed that they had them and they clearly kept them in mint condition. It was also amazing to see how each family have some way of making money; either by fishing, selling groceries, a little cafe at one end and then the snooker hall!

So we played for an hour until going to bed at around 10pm, we had an audience watching us the entire time and Helen didn’t play well at all. We kind of just wanted to be unseen at this moment in time wishing for a game of pool on a snooker table to end!! Unfortunately for us Ali and Carl beat us 2-0, but Helen always makes a point that pub sports…just ain’t her thing! ha ha!

So to our bedroom which our hosts had vacated for us for that night, 4 of us all lined up on a thin mattress, with water underneath and noises from loud televisions, babies’ crying and the like meant we were on for a restless night. Still the experience of being there far outweighed any of this and we were very happy to have stayed in Alatan that night.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We left HCMC at 8am, as always it took a while to get out of the city as the bus kept stopping to pick people up but once we were on our way it took around 2.5 hours to get to the Cambodian border, we had quite a smooth route through passport control as the bus company took our passports, visa fees as well as a $5 admin fee which we only assumed meant that we weren’t hanging around as much as we were through both departure and arrival points within half an hour. It’s always a little nerve racking when someone takes your passport but it worked and next minute we were in Cambodia. After only 15 minutes or so the bus stopped for lunch for 20 minutes and then we left in the direction of Phnom Penh. On this side it took around 4 hours in the end to get to the bus station near one of the big markets in central Phnom Penh, we were a little bombarded by tuk-tuk drivers and saw one of them holding a sign for Sweethome Guesthouse which is where we had made a reservation, they’re not actually from the guesthouse itself but if you’re not booked in and they take you around they will get a commission from the guesthouse, we stupidly agreed to pay $4 for our fist tuk-tuk ride, he seemed to go the long way round we later discovered and we should have only paid a dollar each. It was find though and he got us to the guesthouse, we had a standard double booked for 2 nights with bathrooms for $10.

After settling in and being pestered for booking tuk-tuk tours with the hotel staff we went for a little walk in the city and took in the sunset over the Royal Palace. The guesthouse is very conveniently located south Royal Palace and of the main hustle and bustle of the riverfront, down a quieter street with some good choices of restaurants.

We made our way to the market and bought a very sugar laden fruit shake which helped with our current sugar-low state. It was also very filling and did the trick for a while before we got hungry. We stayed out for some food and ate at a very local noodle-street style restaurant, it only cost us a dollar for the two of us so it was nice to have a cheap start.

Back at Sweethome we arranged a tuk-tuk driver for the following day to take us, John and Lisa (John is Jules’s brother and we did the Halong Bay tour with them in Vietnam) to the Killing Fields and The Slung Treng Museum, we agreed a price of $6 each which we again later realised it was more than we should have paid. Anyway you have to figure these things out when you arrive in new places. We’re learning all the time.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

29th January – Sightseeing in Phnom Penh

John and Lisa arrived at just after 8am and our cheeky choppy tuk-tuk driver was ready and waiting with a tuk-tuk that appeared to be borrowed from one of his pals, they were all joking about the size of it and fitting us all in but it was fine. Perhaps the most amusing thing was that his fuel tank was made from a plastic container!!

It took around half and hour to get to Cheung Ek where the Killing Fields are, arriving early is again better as most tourists start turning up after 9am or so. The entrance fee is $2 per person and we decided to have a guided tour which you pay for based on donation. The area is smaller than we imagined, it was previously an orchard and retains many trees making the area quite serene. The large monument erected for the remembrance of the dead is a powerful reminder of what took place in Cambodia just over 40 years ago! Bones, skulls and clothes which have been found here can been seen, brightly coloured clothes indicated that you were wealthy or educated so therefore you did not stand a chance. Everyone who was brought here by truck was never going to leave!

We were informed by our guide about wooden structures that once stood and what happened inside, from admin to overnight people storage in sealed and dark cells as they couldn’t exterminate them all in one day! Even tormenting them by allowing them to hear the fate of others before their fate was concluded. Pits of mass graves remain and after each rainy season more bones, teeth and pieces of clothes come to the surface of the dirt. You can see pieces sticking out of the ground which makes it all the more real.

Absolutely horrific events took place here to ordinary citizens which makes no sense whatsoever, all in the idea of trying a new political system in order to make Pol-pot a god, produce rice to buy weapons and then spread their influence/extermination far and wide. Even the soldiers who, most of which were brainwashed children, were killed to try and cover up what had taken place.

We left here feeling sombre but with more understanding of the historical events that unfolded. The area is open to educate both foreigners and locals into the history of Cambodia, for people to learn and not let things like this ever happen again. The only downside is that the area is apparently owned by a private firm, maintaining the site but also quite possibly making money from the “tourist attraction” which is wrong and should be funded by the state in our opinion.

Our tuk-tuk driver was waiting for us and we headed off back into Phnom Penh to visit the S-21 prison, used for imprisonment, interrogation and torture of people. This had been converted from a school into the prison camp under the orders of Pol-pot and processed many people who ended up in the Cheung Ek killing fields. Vast empty rooms remind us of the horrors that also took place here along with photographs of victims who were meticulously catalogued and numbered ready for torture and extermination. There are also some written stories from people who are still alive today with stories of their participation in the Khmer Rouge army and their feelings on trial, retribution and the future.

After a sad and truthful morning we went back to grab some lunch at our guesthouse and waited for the Palace to open after their lunch break. We got to the Palace for afternoon opening, Helen wearing a sleeveless top had to cover her shoulders and then we were allowed in. It’s a 5$ entrance fee to the Palace and it is a big site so you can easily spend a morning or afternoon in there, it’s very reminiscent to the Royal Palace in Thailand and has played host to many kings over time, although in the past few decades the royal family have been based in China (or thailand), we heard guides talking of the current king being a monk, it’s always fun eaves-dropping into the tourist groups and making sense from it what we can. Some of the buildings are undergoing renovations; another occurring sight in many cities throughout South-East Asia and China. The main temples and Pagodas are open and the structures are beautifully exquisite in the late afternoon golden light.

We were at the Palace for the main bulk of the afternoon before ending up at one of the markets looking for simples things like sun tan lotion and shampoo, it was difficult finding anything we wanted so ended up going for a drink nearby. After more walking around the city and the sunsetting we found a restaurant mentioned in the LP which served some excellent Khmer food, perhaps a little more pricey and well presented than we were used to but it was good to have something different.

We said our goodbyes to John and Lisa who were moving north in the next few days. We had decided to put our passports in at the hotel for the Laos visas and bought a bus ticket to Koh Kong leaving at 7am the next morning.