For our final few days left in Nepal we spent the majority of our time recuperating after the trek. Once we had our Indian visas in hand there was little else for us to arrange and so we took advantage of a pleasant room at Pilgrims and decided to do a spot of sightseeing.

On our first full day back in Kathmandu we opted to take some of our trekking gear to The Porter’s donation charity based at KEEP, where we also wrote an account of our trekking experience in their 2012 Everest Region journal. We felt good about doing this as we enjoyed reading through the notes when we first arrived.

We spent a lazy afternoon in The Garden of Dreams where we enjoyed great food and a chance to sit and relax away from the busyness of the city. We vowed to come back before leaving Nepal. The only things that got in the way of our recovery and sight-seeing time were Helen’s sore throat and Dave’s lightening bolt effect food poisoning from the falafel stand in Thamel. Eek! We were however comforted when Joshua and Amata returned and decided to stay in our guesthouse too. We were also relieved to have access to over the counter antibiotics, we know this isn’t something that should be taken for granted but it was handy in this situation.

Helen enjoyed a fantastic Paneer-Dosa with friends at Pilgrim’s Bookshop cafe, they have a nice space out the back of the bookshop. Dave opted to stay in and recover and we arranged to sight-see later on.

We took a rickshaw out to Swayambhunath, the ‘monkey-temple’ as it’s also known at around 4pm to get the low light effect. It was packed with locals going up to say their prayers and turn the hundreds of prayer wheels, the site looks down on Kathmandu and is home to shrines, prayer flags, large Buddhas and a tall crowning stupa. There are some 365 stone steps to reach the stupa lined with trees and monkeys and hawkers trying to feel tat. There is a 100rs fee for tourist entry.

The following day Dave was still ill and so Helen ventured off with Joshua and Amata to Pashupatinah, Nepal’s largest Hindu shrine.

We couldn’t access much of the site but what you do witness are hindi’s on their deathbed’s, wrapped in orange cloth on stone slabs with their feet dipped in the water (this is to drain out the remainder of their life). From there they get taken to stone Ghat’s used for cremation and there is quite a stench in the air whist bodies’ are cremated on piles of wood for all eyes to see. It was an interesting and slightly voyeuristic experience, but it was equally intense and in some ways upsetting to watch people’s emotions being played out right in front of us. Dotted around the complex are fancily dressed male Saddhu’s who wait for tourists so that they can charge for a photograph, Helen managed to get a sneaky one without them noticing.

We walked from Pashupatinah to Bodhnath northeast of Kathmandu city centre. We could see the temple as we made our way down the hill and into the urban area. It was a really nice walk ambling through village-like areas with dwelling’s surrounded by some greenery, something you don’t see in Thamel. Bodhnath is 40m in height and is the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal, marking the centre of the country’s Tibetan culture. Always circling stupas and mani-walls on the left here a few hundred people were walking around the base of the stupa surrounded by gompas and pilgrim rest-houses and tea lodges. We walked around the top of base of the stupa also before enjoying some tea and momo’s at Dew Drops Cafe looking out directly over the site.

We enjoyed good pizza’s at The Roadhouse along with some decent Thai food on the other side of the street, and on our last day in Kathmandu we returned to the very relaxing Garden of Dreams visiting the nice Patan Durbar Square.

Patan is around a half hour south of Thamel by taxi which was the first time we’d actually left the Thamel area since we’d been staying in Kathmandu. It’s hyped to be much nicer than the Thamel Durbar Square we didn’t visit, but those guys said it was way nicer and well kept in comparison. There are 3 main courtyards in the square open to public and in one of the old palace building’s is a very good Nepalise historical museum. Many people are drawn to the square to meet with friends or to sketch the wonderful Newari-crafted architecture. It was also nice to roam the backstreets of Patan and get a feel for the place, there are many temples and shrines dotted around and more locals are simply living there rather being constantly surrounded by people trying to sell you stuff as it often seems to be the case in Thamel.

Kathmandu is a mixture of several things, there is rubbish literally everywhere, the place is extremely polluted and it’s busy all the time. Having said this though it was exciting to be thrown back into a culture like this. We’ve really loved our time in Nepal and hope that the photographs and blog entries give you a glimpse of what it meant for us to be there exploring their rich culture and amazing country. Yes there is a huge problem with rubbish and infrastructure but we couldn’t help but feel a close connection to the people who really welcomed us into their beautiful country.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0, 18mm f4, 90mm Tele-Elmarit f2.8 processed in Lightroom 3)

Along the train line towards Nara are some recommended walks and world heritage temples to explore. They’re a little further away from the tourist crowds accumulating in Kyoto every day but close enough to stop at a few places in one morning or afternoon. So with another filling breakfast setting us up nicely for the day our first port of call was Inari.

This is only two train stops away from Kyoto and using the JR pass we eagerly set off in-search of more temple goodness. We have had a knack of walking past the places that we want to visit / restaurants that we want to eat at, which as you can imagine becomes something of a running joke between us. This time it almost happened again. A massive bright orange gate opposite the train station exit was almost missed, however we spotted it just in time before heading off down the road in the opposite direction.

Fushimi-Inari is a huge complex of shrines and temples that are a big draw to many worshipers. As Fushimi-Inari Shrine is so big it did not feel too crowded, which is what we like. There is a tunnel of 10,000 orange shrine gates (torii) which form the path up to Mt Inari, 233 meters in height. The 4km path involves steps most of the way up so it also felt like a good workout. Groups of business men in suits were climbing the hill, stopping for beer in the many cafes on the assent to the top, they must have been roasting hot in there clothing attire. Half way up we found a great view of Kyoto city just behind some small shrines, however at the very top there is no view due to trees dominating the summit, Dave was not happy about this! We had a celebratory orange at the top and then headed down. A very worthwhile visit indeed and with free entrance it’s just marvelous. We were pretty intrigued by the small dog statues wearing bibs – this is something to do with having protection from the cold winter ahead. Helen thought they were particularly cute, you may see a few more of these!

One stop back towards Kyoto station we stopped at Kyoto’s largest Buddhist Zen Monastery, Tofuku-ji. This was lovely, really well looked after and some great photo opportunities, just a shame the sky was thick with grey cloud. A look around the gardens and temples and then our stomach’s started to rumble. We headed back to the station where just down the road is a great little organic cafe that sold a mix of Japanese and Korean food.

We made a classic Western error here. Doors can “swing” open as we are used to, but most tend to “slide” open. We tried about three times at pulling and pushing the door, wandering around looking for another entrance and getting mildly frustrated that the door appeared locked, but we could see people inside enjoying their food. Finally we tried the slide method and Hallelluja we were in. We got a few strange looks but we dealt with the shame! We had good portions of sashimi salad and rice for Helen and teriyaki chicken salad and rice for Dave, which we both enjoyed.

After returning to K’s Guest House we had some relax time with a few blog post updates, a cheeky rum and ginger ale (ginger beer is so much better but its hard to find over here) and some snacks from the bar. Helen made a skype call home to the Roscoe’s to brighten up her stay, they were all out in force with the Roscoe-Elwood addition and lovely Sukie smiling and waving away. Much love to them all, Karl was messing around and we giggled lots – missing you all! xx

After the excitement of skype we read about some temple gardens in Kyoto are only open during the evening and decided that a night garden experience was something that we wanted to do. Luckily there was no rain in sight and we easily found our destination; Kodaiji. Using artificial illumination in this garden works brilliantly, red and orange leaves reflecting off the pool waters bring very much of a mystical feel. The bamboo forest was also great with vertical lines shooting up to the canopy above. We both loved it.

For a late night bite to eat we stopped at a cafe and ordered a kind of omelette, rice and sauce. Dave opted for the curry and cheese version which was surprisingly nice and Helen went for a yellow pepper / white bean sauce which didn’t go down all that well, quite bland. The photos might not tell a great story of these, but they were OK and the price was reasonable.

K’s guest house was having a 7th Birthday party so we headed back to our lodgings and joined in the celebrations with a few drinks. Up early tomorrow to leave Kyoto and head to more peaceful and serene surroundings.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)