Before we left Kumily we couldn’t resist another fabulous Claus breakfast, the same as the day before , perhaps we’d been subconsciously craving this kind of food as it was so completely delicious. It definitely set us up for the journey to Munnar and after we paid the bill we took a rickshaw to the very close bus station and boarded the green bus on the right hand side. It only cost 81rs each, a bargain for the distance covered.

The main problem though with this kind of travel and perhaps even more so on private buses is it’s about getting on as many passengers as possible to keep the bus conductors till ringing. We were tightly packed in as the driver swung around and horned his way passed other vehicles through the hilly landscape. It was a beautiful drive though, as soon as we were an hour or so into the journey we were hitting tea plantation territory which is quite unique.

After 5 hours we arrived in Munnar and quickly got a rickshaw to Rheinberg Homestay on the hill directly looking down over the bazaar. We contacted them in advance as it’s peak season for Munnar at that time and a festival would be taking place a few days after our arrival. Rheinberg is a small home-stay with only 3 rooms, and it is set up to be very separate from the house, for example no communal area other than outdoors and they weren’t a family who welcomed you in. The owners are very sweet though as we got to know them, and the room…well it was no Claus Garden but it would do for the price at 1000rs a night and we had a lovely little garden with roses surrounding our room. We’d recommend taking breakfast elsewhere though as it wasn’t very good.

When we settled in we head out for lunch at the very popular Hotel Saravan Bhavan serving a good range of South Indian vegetarian food on banana leaves. Helen had a vegetable thali and Dave a paneer massala with lemon rice, our waiter couldn’t be more attentive and so we tipped generously at the end. The food there is really cheap but excellent and so we thought we’d be coming back again and sampling more from the menu. We explored the town of Munnar which isn’t really that attractive but is surrounded by lush tea plantations. We walked up to the Hindu Temple, wandered the streets a little and bought some tea and spices (cardamon, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, star anise and black Munnar tea all for 330rs). We also documented some of the fantastical painted decorations that appear on so many of the buses and trucks over here. Later on we met more travellers and holiday makers who were staying at Rheinberg and so we sat out with them until bedtime chatting away.

On our full day in Munnar we opted to keep it quite cheap and so after breakfast we walked out towards the Kanan Devon Hills Tea Museum (formerly the Tata Tea Museum). The name change confused us a little and we ended up walking past the museum but we also did this because the walk in this part of town is really nice, suddenly we were in quiet villages and still the tea plantations surrounded us. After a few kilometres we went back towards the museum and decided to see what it was all about. It’s the closest you can get as a visitor to a working tea plantation but everything is for show. It costs 75rs per person including a couple of cups of Ripple branded tea and a tea demonstration. We actually enjoyed our little tour of the factory museum, it was informative and full of Indian tourists loving the Tea story.

We then came back through Munnar this time enjoying doss’s at Saravan Bhavan with the same waiter, Helen’s ravi dosa was quite something and we promised ourselves breakfast there the next day.

We followed lunch by taking a rickshaw out to Pothamedu Viewpoint some 4 km out of town, we stopped to take in the view, which is stunning and then began a little half day hike down through tea plantations and across to the Atthukad Waterfalls. The path had plenty of signs saying no trespassing but when we asked locals the directions they sent us this way. We passed by tea harvesters and ended up taking a short-cut down steps which lead straight through the plantations because we followed them to help us with our direction. When we came out at the waterfalls we didn’t really stop as there isn’t that much to see, but it was a beautiful walk and nice to be on our own un-guided hike. We took the paths uphill to the Tata processing factory and then we were led up to the main road back to Munnar where we caught the next bus for 6rs each back to town stopping at Kurinji Gift Shop south of central Munnar and walked back from there.

For our second evening in Munnar we ate at Rapseys in the undercover Bazaar where we joined the group who we’d met the night before. Dave got carried away as the dishes were coming up at 30-40rs each and so the two of us ended up with more food than the other three combined! Two small vegetable curries, a potato curry, some curd, 2 chapatti’s, roast peas and a vegetable biryani! The food was good here but we preferred our favourite down the road. For some reason we keep talking about food but it’s been really fantastic for us in South India and often some of our highlights have been the food we’ve eaten and so for breakfast the next morning we went back to Saravan and had our first local Indian breakfast (we did have Indian breakfasts at Kunnar Beachhouse) but this was out first out of a home stay. We enjoyed Idly’s, vada’s and a slightly sweet rice cake style dish. This was served with a mild curry, a coco-nut, spiced yoghurt and another little vegetable dish. Yum! We hope you are now salivating!

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0, 18mm f4, 90mm Tele-Elmarit f2.8 processed in Lightroom 3)

We enjoyed our time in Varkala however it was now the time to sadly leave the beaches and cooling ocean behind and head inland to the small town of Kumily where the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is located, home to wild elephants and tigers.

A 2.5hr busy train ride departing Varkala at 7am to Kottayam was quickly followed by a speedy 3hr bus journey to Kumily, which should normally have taken 4hrs but the bus driver had obviously been to bus racing school. Our home-stay of choice was Claus Garden at 1400rs/per night, run by Claus of German descent and his Indian wife, who both welcomed us on arrival to their lovely house. Large open rooms with wooden fittings, solar hot water, wi-fi, communal area, kitchen that we could use, breakfast if you wanted it and a lovely roof top terrace with the occasional black monkey.

We both loved the setting for our next two days and quickly increased our time here by another night. A cheap lunch was served up at the Annapurna vegetarian restaurant located on the main road running through Kumily. We booked onto a “Nature Walk” tour in the wildlife sanctuary at the Ecotourism office costing 800rs for up to 4 people. Once the afternoon heat and sun had receded somewhat we headed for the Miracle Mile road which leads surprisingly to Miracle Point! The views from the top are worth the hike which can be steep in places and we walked back towards the town passing little family homes, children waving and dogs barking angrily at us.

Breakfast consisted of pancakes, fruits, really tasty homemade jam, tea and coffee all for 180rs each. We had a relaxed morning exploring the garden of Claus Garden and working on editing photos and writing for the blog. Before we knew it we were at Chrissies for a lunch of Italian pasta variety. The food was good, especially a great cardamon shake, but the dining environment was a little lackluster.

If you are in a mountain region like this one then you really should visit a spice/tea plantation. A short rickshaw ride (50rs) to Abraham’s Spice Garden, which is noted in the Lonely Planet and featured in Micheal Palin’s Around the World in 80 gardens, was also highly recommended by Claus. We toured the lush garden with Mr Abraham himself for 1 hour which included tasting herbs, leaves, bananas and fresh papaya straight from the tree. The tour was very good costing 100rs each and we would highly recommend it, over the more commercial plantations in the area. We jumped on a local bus back to Kumily and the home-stay for more blogging, reading, napping, yoga and a body circuit  – not all at once and not all for both of us! Evening meal was eaten at Sree Krishna, a South Indian Thali filled us to the brim.

Up early and in a rickshaw for 6.15am, we would have to wait for breakfast until we returned from our guided “Nature Walk” in the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary where we would hope to see some lush natural landscapes and wild elephants. The tour began 20 minutes after the 7am scheduled time slot and our guide was of the mute variety. No introduction, just some form filling waiving our rights away, he mumbled inaudibly whist we followed him through grasses and forest. We came within 20m of an elephants bum sticking out of some bushes and we retreated to observe from afar. We know and understand that elephants are very dangerous, not really the harmless gentle type, but we spent most of the 3 hours heading in the opposite direction from any of the elephants that we spotted, even at 100m+ away!

With temperatures rising and frustration setting in after passing the same few trees several times we arrived back at the beginning and said goodbye to our friendly if not very informative guide. Back at Claus Garden breakfast was a grand affair which included home-made brown bread, north Indian soft cheese from a can (think mozzarella), tomatoes, home-made jam and peanut sauce, fruits, tea and coffee, all of which were quite spectacular.

During the afternoon we explored more of Kumily on foot and then spent the afternoon and evening relaxing in the home-stay. The following morning was our departure day from Kumily to journey onwards towards Munnar, a 4-5hr journey on a private local bus leaving at 9.45am.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0, 18mm f4, 90mm Tele-Elmarit f2.8 processed in Lightroom 3)

Varkala was to be our place of rest, a holiday within our travels and we wanted to have a little base here for a while before moving on within Kerala. The train journey from Kochi was pretty good, we got there in about 4 hours, the only down side was that we didn’t have a seat where our ticket said our seats were.

This is because on sleeper class during the day people just sit anywhere regardless of whether they’re ticket says so or not. In our actual seats there were around 12 people crammed onto the lower beds. We opted for the upper deck with the bags and hid away, the plus side of this being that no-one tried to sit next to us. It was a hot and fun journey but we were more than happy to be getting off at Varkala.

We got a rickshaw to the North Cliff, under the impression that we would be staying at Shiva Garden Guesthouse, who had offered a free pick up. The only thing we had to do was make a call from the station area to get them to pick us up, we couldn’t find a phone anywhere and people were not very willing to help. So we just made our own way there and were pleased we didn’t get them to pick us up as we decided not to stay there after all. We wanted something a little nicer, after all we were on our holiday time! So we moved on and had a look at a few places in that area at the top of the North Cliff and settled for a 800rs room at the Clafouti Resort, we thought we’d do one night here and then move on. The room was nice and the location not too bad but the owners are not the most hospitable and we wanted to be on the quieter side of Varkala cliff.

Varkala wasn’t quite what we imagined it to be, it had been over-rated by fellow friends and travellers we’d met along the way. We now realised that we actually had it quite good up in Palolem. It’s a busy cliff resort full of bright signs, craft sellers, hotels and resorts, most of the restaurants cater for the tourist with western menus and the beach, hmmm! Still we thought we’d give Varkala time to grow on us. The first thing we did was grab some food at Clafouti restaurant, with a nice cool breeze coming from the wild ocean below we enjoyed a massive mexican meal, we just wanted a light lunch! We then ventured out to find another place to stay for the rest of our time there. We had read about Varkala Villas on South Cliff and so went for a stroll out along the cliff to the area.

En-route we passed a man demonstrating para-gliding as he was attempting to take off on the section of cliff between north and south. We helped him untangle his kite strings from a car and then he was off with the birds watched by several Indian tourists in amazement. We found Varkala Villas on the South Cliff and negotiated to stay with them for 3 nights at 1500rs/night for their lovely bungalow overlooking their beautiful garden. The owners are very accommodating and friendly with it which helps.

After we moved to the bungalow we spent much of our time relaxing, decided not to take breakfast with the owners (500rs extra) we did our own in the form of curd (yoghurt), fruit and muesli. We’d been carrying the muesli with purpose since buying it in Kathmandu when we first got to Nepal, we HAD to use it! Plus it meant we weren’t spending so much money on food every day plus they had a small kitchen with a fridge we could us too. We enjoyed the hammocks in the garden and would spend time in the middle of the day on the beach. When we were on the beach we were surrounded by other tourists and backpackers taking the time to soak up the rays. We rented an umbrella each time for 150rs and picked our spot where we would read in between dips into the ocean and naps. It’s a hard life!

The sea at Varkala beach is a little wild, you can’t really swim out very far as the currents are strong and the waves fierce. On our first swim Helen got a little scared as she kept having to dive under massive waves and was getting further and further away from Dave. But after time we both over-came wave-scared moments and enjoyed them like they were roller coasters, often washed up and tossed around. The North Cliff end of the beach is where most tourists gather and so this is also a prime spot for local male onlookers having a good ‘perv’ at the girls in bikini’s. It’s quite off-putting and at the same time laughable but they don’t ever see so much flesh on show so who can blame the?!

We took 3 yoga classes whilst we were there, one with the local ayurvedic doctor who’s Hatha style session was a little un-rehearsed, Dave was urging Helen to take over. The main problem really though was the language barrier as the next 2 days we attended an intense Ashtanga Yoga class with a teacher who’s English was much better and his practice was very focused. This second class based with Namaste on the North Cliff in front of Juice Shack was much easier to follow, although we ended up in buckets of sweat each time.

We followed our yoga sessions with a very good omelette and juice at Coffee Temple a few doors down. Although it took over an hour one day to receive the omelette it was very good and they do a fantastic chai-latte too. As Varkala grew on us we ended up staying 6 nights in the end and enjoyed our little routine during the day. One evening we went to the Varkala annual festival along with what felt like thousands of others. The atmosphere was building and building, with dressed elephants, musicians, dancers and folk in tradition costume. The only thing was not much was actually going on. There was a problem with the amount of people on the sides of the road and traffic was making it’s way through at speed, so much so that at one point one of the locals was hit by a passing vehicle which didn’t stop. It was quite a moment, being witness to a hit and run accident and how it was dealt with afterwards. The police went off after the car whilst the injured man was quickly rammed into the back of a van, we assumed he was being taken to hospital. Crazy times!

Other things did come of the festival though in the form of fire crackers and fire-works, they were so loud we could feel the ground shake, and they continued on throughout the night. We found solace at Oceano, an Ayurvedic resort who also offer a great menu of what we found to be delicious Keralan and other Indian food. We ended up eating there 3 times in the end as the food was so good and it was very rarely occupied. Oceano is on the South Cliff next door to KR’s Guesthouse. (Whilst this was our favorite jaunt for food we did also have an award for Cafe Del Mar’s smoothies on South Cliff).

Halfway into our stay in Varkala we met Andy and Lisa who through the power of Facebook were introduced to us via a mutual friend back home. We were staying 30 seconds walk away and so it was easy to meet up with them and we enjoyed beers, food, smoothies, yoga and beach time with them too. Next door to where they were staying at Villa Jacadera is Absolute Ayurveda a clinic that had been highly recommended to us by the family staying in the bungalow next to us. I knew they had to be good as Katrin is an ayurvedic practitioner back in Germany.

Based on her recommendation we chose a day package (it’s actually 2 hours ish). For 2700rs we enjoyed a full body massage, a chidroreah treatment involving 45 minutes worth of buttermilk, honey and other medicinal things being dripped onto our forehead. This was followed by a herbal wash (for Helen) and a facial for the both of us. Bear in mind that you are completely naked during this kind of treatment aside from a very small cloth thing! We both felt really good afterwards though an our skin felt amazing. Any of these treatments back home would cost a fortune so we figured we may as well do it in the home of Ayurveda.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0, 18mm f4, 90mm Tele-Elmarit f2.8, Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 processed in Lightroom 3)

Our train to Ernakalum left at 10am (ish) from Kannur and so after another wonderful breakfast we sadly said our goodbyes to the friendly hosts at Kannur Beach House and to the other travelers and guests that had accumulated during our stay. We thought about staying longer but also wanted to move onwards.

The doctor’s got the same train as us and accompanied us in the reserved seat section. They had only paid for a non-reserved seat and so upgraded at a measly cost of 43rs for the 3 of them! Crazy that you can travel so far for so little here in India, train and bus travel is such a cost effective way to get around. Our journey took around 6 hours to reach Ernakalum and we were ready to get off the packed train when it did. Simply trying to get off the train can be quite a hassle (these are the downsides of cheaper public transport). When we got outside of the station our rickshaw driver from Mother Tree Inn was waiting for us and it took nearly an hour for the underpowered machine to reach the guesthouse in Fort Kochi. We didn’t end up at Mother Tree though, instead he took us to The Good Kharma Inn which is the sister guesthouse of Mother Tree. We didn’t mind and the young owner Anu was pretty amusing with it. The room came to 700rs/night with breakfast included, bargain.

We didn’t have much time to see any of Fort Kochi that night but we walked along the fort area people watching what seemed like hundreds of locals there for the evening. We also ate at the highly recommended Dal Roti; ginger, lemon soda and 2 paneer thali’s and we knew we would be back here the next night. The food is really good, the layout is pretty rustic and the maitre’d quite a character.

For our first full day in Kochi and after a satisfying scrambled eggs, toast and jam we took a walk out to the Chinese fishing nets located on the water front. It was pretty rammed full of cruise liner tourists that we weren’t feeling the authenticity of the nets at all, they are there really for tourism now and try to get you to buy fish from them and to go up and take photographs etc. From here we took a rickshaw to The Dutch Palace also known as (Manchetterry Palace) which we timed very badly as it seemed that all the cruise ship tourists had been bused in. We could hardly move in there and it’s not a very big museum at all, so for us we wanted to get out as soon as we arrived and managed to stick it out for 15 minutes before making tracks. At the Synagogue we were also faced with problems, they wouldn’t let us take our cameras in, regardless of whether or not we would take photographs there was no way we would leave our beloved Leica anywhere we weren’t!

However we did find some very nice items at Crafters in Jew town in the form of antique printing blocks which we thought would work nicely as decorative art back home. We actually wanted to get a wooden carved piece and found a beautiful old window cover but to ship it home would have been nearly 3 times as much as it was to buy! So we settled for the intricate designs of the printing blocks and bought 4 pieces for 1600rs. We also ate at the cafe upstairs mainly because we were hungry and didn’t want to be shopping around for food in a tourist area.

When we left Jew Town after exploring some more of the back streets we took a rickshaw to The Indo-Portuguese Museum only to find out that it was closed on Mondays! So instead we went to a shop on Lilly Street a few doors down from Dal Roti and bargained for a few more household items in the form of 2 very bold and contemporary block patterned bed covers and a material wall hanging. We followed our shopping trip by enjoying tea at Tpot Cafe another colourful rustic joint. We were finding more things that we liked about Fort Kochi! We once again ate at Dal Roti with a German couple we’d met at breakfast, this was followed by cheap Kingfisher at one of the drinking bars.

One our third day we went on a tour, our first tour in India and for 650rs each we paid to visit the Kerelan backwaters on a traditional wicker style boat. We opted to see the backwaters from Kochi rather than Allepey as we’d heard it gets very busy down there and so we hoped for a tranquil tour. We had a very friendly young guide who was also quite assertive and informative when required. With two boatmen using the punting technique we ambled through bigger canals down to very narrow ones throughout the day. It was a very relaxing tour, all we had to do was sit and take it all in. Along the route we stopped off at spice plantations, rope making, coconut farm and a calcium cement factory. A real mixture of the type of trade that occurs in the backwaters of Kerela. We also enjoyed our first banana leaf style lunch; the traditional way to serve a thali.

By the end of the day we were back in Kochi enjoying our final evening there, we had booked a train for the next day to take us to Varkala leaving at 9am. We ended up having food in the bazaar where a cool cafe place sits on top of the tourist information office. Although the presentation of the cafe is very in keeping with the yellow antique effect seen all over town, the dosa didn’t live up to earlier one’s we’d tried. We followed this with more tea at the Tpot (when we got back from the tour we nipped into Tpot for a juice and some of their delicious cheescake!) before heading back and preparing for another move the next day.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0, 18mm f4, 90mm Tele-Elmarit f2.8, Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 processed in Lightroom 3)

The 3 tier non-AC sleeper was very basic. The windows provided plenty of ventilation and it actually got a little chilly, however a lack of curtain deprived any kind of privacy and no sheet on a plastic covered mattress completed the uncomfortable set. Non the less we did get some earplug assisted sleep and awoke with only 1hr until we were due to arrive  in Kannur, our first steps in India’s laid back state of Kerala. Breakfast was bought at the train station in a vegetarian restaurant and we devoured Masala Dosa’s (thin crispy bread, spicy potato filling and curry on the side) and Masala tea – 25rs, amazing value at 30p each.

After researching on the internet we discovered Kannur Beach House Home-stay which looked great and got very high ratings from previous guests. An 8km rickshaw ride south of Kannur to the beachfront of Thottado Beach and we arrived at the guesthouse situated on a stretch of backwaters. An annual Kerelan festival was taking place called Theyyam, it is local only to Kannur and takes places between October to May across each temple in the area. We caught the tail end of a 48 hour ceremony visited and observed the local population taking part and utilising traditional costumes, amazing facial painting and some trance (not the hard-house variety) based ritualistic dance.

Heading back to the home-stay we explored beautiful hidden beaches with golden sands, palm tree shade and then retreated to some well deserved hammock action. It did not take long to see why people love this home-stay. The food was some of the best we have ever eaten and we have eaten a lot! The 2500rs per room fee includes breakfast and evening meal which are Ayurvedic Kerelan home cooked in variety and you can have lunch for only 100rs each extra. The owners were equally accommodating and loaned us yoga mats as well as being able to observe their chef in action in the kitchen. A family of 4 and very close to each other they used to work in IT but have now built this lovely home-stay which attracts repeat visitors year in year out. We could see why.

Our fellow travellers also appreciated the surroundings and the food, it was really great to share this experience with Ture & Revital (London based conceptual designers/artists) and three graduated doctors from the UK. We cannot speak highly enough of the food. Each meal was a buffet selection, eaten outdoors frequently with the hosts and family and all washed down with herbal water and hot tea. To use a Master Chef quote… Vegetarian food does not get better than this! Yum!

We didn’t really want to leave but we were tied into a train ticket, although only costing around £2 so we could have easily discarded it, but at the same time we had a little bit of momentum going and didn’t want to settle just yet. On our last evening we enjoyed a longish walk along the quiet stretch of beach which just seems to go on and on. Some of the locals were out sorting out fishing boats and so on, whilst others were out to enjoy the views like us. We stopped for a group photograph with some girls from Kannur before making our way back for our last night of fantastic food and company.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0, 18mm f4, 90mm Tele-Elmarit f2.8 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)