We wanted to capture some more of Beijing’s famous temple sites and had been recommended to visit the Yongegong Lama Temple along with the Confucius Temple, both located very close to the subway stop on line 2 and not far from the Drum and Bell towers.

The Lama Temple is described as being the most renowned Tibetan Buddhist temple outside of Tibet and houses several shrines, incense burners, pavilions and an 18m high statue of the Maitreya Buddha sculpted from a single block of sandalwood. It’s a very impressive sight and draws people from all around to burn incense and pray to their gods. It’s a busy place to go but during the week it is quieter and nowhere near as crowded as The Forbidden City. The colours of brick work have been maintained to a very high standard and on a bright day it’s a really beautiful place to be. Further south from the Lama Temple and down a tourist Hutong we found the Temple of Confucius. Much quieter than the Lama Temple and a little less looked after this place does have some controversial history surrounding one of Beijing’s most famous writers Lao She. We didn’t really know much about this but have read up on it since. Aside from this though it has some impressive Chinese Classics engraved on huge stone slabs kept in a cold and dark warehouse. It’s quite eery in there and very cold!

After our Temple sightseeing escapade we walked along the streets to an area we’ve grown to love in Nanluoguxiang where we grabbed an okay bite to eat at Passby Bar before making our way back to Xinjeikou on the tube. Just a quick note on the subway over here in Beijing. At times it can take a while for you to get to your final destination due to the lack of lines joining in convenient areas…but it is incredibly cheap and if you don’t mind the masses of locals using the subway you can get anywhere for 2 yuan per person which is around 20p. Sometimes it’s quicker than getting a taxi and it certainly helps for those on a budget.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We’ve opted for some sightseeing and thrown ourselves headfirst into the height of Beijing’s tourist center; The Forbidden City. Helen came here many years ago on a hot summers day. On this day the sun shone and the sky was blue, but it was very cold. Along with panda hat wearing locals, westerners and street vendors we approached the Forbidden City through the front gates passing under Mao’s portrait and through to the grounds. It’s a massive site built up of several temples, shrines, gardens, halls and statues that were home to the Qing and Ming dynasties many moons ago. It’s a must do in the whole scale of things to do when you visit China. However Dave was expecting a little more!! It is quite tired and the money coming in from the thousands of visitors every day doesn’t appear to be going into the upkeep of the site. However given this it’s still very impressive and is also host to a 4 star toilet facility! Well surely this is enough to go on it’s own merit!!

You can easily spend a day here as there are so many routes within the city, gardens and museums to explore. We opted for a long morning. The colours of the brickwork and walls within the Forbidden City are beautiful and we loved the textures that exist within this environment. Later that evening we ate at The Korean Bistro on Nanluoguxiang, a tourist Hutong area that has a mixture of western and Chinese food, gift shops and bars.

The following day we went on our first of two trips booked with the CCC. This one was for the Great Wall of China and we were going to an area of the wall that isn’t walked often, has no tourist traps and was around an hour and a half away from the city. It was lovely to get out of the city and the weather was again perfect from a photography point of view, although it was bitterly cold in the wind. Our local tour guide is from the village where we started the walk and he along with others from his family had helped to re-build parts of the wall so that people can hike in the area. He had even carried a table to a watch-mans tower so that we could stop there for lunch. We had a lovely group including Trisha and her two children from Portland, Joyce from NYC and Becca from England, our tour guide from the CCC Andy spoke excellent English and had great knowledge about the hike. Both he and the tour co-ordinator Michael were very dedicated in carrying hot water, coffee and snacks all the way. As you can see by the photographs the scenery is quite mystical with a very hazy layer on the horizon. We really enjoyed the walk and were breathtaken by the Great Wall itself.

As we got back down we were invited into the home of our local tour guide. We sat in their living room drinking tea and chatting away, it was a lovely finish to a great walk. When we got back to the CCC we were invited back to Joyce’s for beer and popcorn, Dave, Becca and myself took her up on the offer and before long we were sat in her serviced apartment in Sanlitun. We discovered Joyce is an author of 30+ books!! This is someone who has sheer dedication and is an inspiration to us all. We met up with Trisha minus the kids and went to a very local chinese fast food restaurant for noodles and chinese burgers. We ended the night with a hot chocolate at The Bookworm.

On sunday we went to a charity Christmas gift event at the Canadian International School of Beijing, we bought a few Christmas gifts and soon found ourselves back at The Bookworm using their free wi-fi. This was followed by a spot of shopping before we made our way back to the CCC for their noodle and dumpling making class. This was taught to us by a local professional Chinese chef who specialises in Chinese pastry. We made our dough for the dumplings, left it to rise and in the meantime we had a go at stretching and pulling the dough used for noodle making. This was loads of fun and many people ended up with theirs on the floor as the dough stretched too far. There is a real knack to this and it does take many years to perfect so one lesson wont do much!! For the dumplings there was a meat and veggie option for the filling. The meat is pork and vegetable and the veggie option is egg and spinach. We rolled out our dough, chopped it, flattened it out and then filled it with a little of the stuffing. After this you close the dough in and around the mixture and then make a nice pattern with the dough. We hope that the photos describe it better. Once they were ready they were boiled and then we ate them with a soy dip. They were okay! I’m sure next time they’ll be loads better!! Only a few people got to make the actual noodles but we didn’t cook them so it was more of a demonstration. It was a pretty cool little event, although it would be good to learn how to make the mixture ourselves rather than having it ready to go. We also met Jen from Tinyurbankitchen who is traveling with her husband and writing a food blog.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

Happy Birthday to you….Happy birthday to you….Happy birthday dear Dave….Happy birthday to you!!! Today is my birthday! As you might have guessed. Who would have thought last year that I would be spending my 27th birthday in Japan! So, what to do to on my special day?

We decided to get out of Kanazawa and head to more remote parts of the country. Up early, porridge and toast for breakfast we head out to catch the train, using the Japan Rail Pass to the max. Our destination is north towards the coast, Nanao, Ishikawa to be precise. Tiredness was a slight issue on the train but we fought through and photographed other sleepy passengers. One women was even receiving some Reiki next to us from an elderly woman which also kept us entertained.

I felt the need to be “harbor bound” so we headed to the waters edge. It was a bit windy and there was handily no-one around, so we had a look out to sea and did a little jig of our own to celebrate my birthday. Helen was also in the mood for singing random songs and melodies which was a nice birthday present.

We wandered around at the sea front and then headed inland to the center of Nanao to see if there was some action taking place. There was plenty to photograph in the backstreets which was great fun and we captured some nice images. We were on the look out for some human ingenuity (a brief from a flickr group) and we found some plastic bottles that had been re-purposed into windmills. A few photos and we felt our submission is possibly complete.

Having to wait an hour for the next train up the coast, we headed for some food. Neither Helen or I eat donuts but we thought we would give Mister Donut a go as a special treat. It was an experience. Very light dough and subtle flavors, kind of baked rather than fried. Also it seemed that this was the local hangout for the OAP’s of the town. More exploration, some purchase of snacks for later and then off to the next town, Wakura Onsen.

This place felt a little strange to begin with. In the summer time / heyday this town must have been the equivalent to Skegness in the UK. It felt quite backwards and had an air of a horror film about it (the Wicker Man and a little of The Shining spring to mind). We carried on regardless, past the Karaoke drive through, and towards the sea front. We found a nice little park and also an amazing view out towards the sea from a foot onsen. This was bliss. Soak your feet and legs in some very warm water and look out to sea. Now this most definitely feels like a Birthday to remember.

After lots of photographs and some lunch at a picnic bench in the park we headed onwards to explore more of this tired town. We headed back on the fast train to Kanazawa and went out for some food at an Indonesian restaurant. Very nice. We cleared all the plates with ease. On for a few more drinks and some pudding, no less than grape (they love there grape flavors over in japan) ice-cream sundae. A lovely day was had by all. Thanks to the lovely Helen for singing to me with her dulcet tones and making my day special. Here’s to 28 next year!

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We just wanted to write a quick post regarding the visa & camera insurance for the trip. It’s been really difficult getting insurance for a full year from either of our own camera insurers; Photoguard & Towergate. Although they offer great insurance for UK & worldwide, their trip coverage is limited to either 90 days or 6 months & so this has left us with an issue of finding a company who will insure us for what we want for as long as we want. After some research I came across Aaduki camera insurance who were really helpful & guess what…? They offer insurance for a year worldwide. They also have a very comprehensive cover that enables us to backpack, train travel, walk, drive, run, cycle etc & not be too worried about how our cameras are being ported around! Downsizing has also given us a little freedom on the cost front, yes we still have equipment to cover, but by not having 3 lenses each & two professional DSLR bodies with us means that the cost of our gear is less, along with the size, the weight & the premium for insurance!

With regards to the visas, we just wanted to point out how easy it was to file our own visa applications for China & Vietnam. We printed off the forms from the embassy websites & sent off with our passports, within 2 weeks of sending for both we have both visas sorted & at a much lower price than going through a 3rd party or travel agent. The Chinese forms were far more comprehensive than the Vietnamese one & the only thing that came up is that when traveling into Hong Kong from mainland China & then back into mainland means that you need 2 entries. It also means that each entry is valid for 60 days! It is more costly to have a multiple entry visa, but this gives us the flexibility of going in & out of mainland China.The Vietnamese tourist visa is for 30 days single entry, for Cambodia & Laos you can have up to 30 days on entry & for Thailand we’ll be sorting out a 90 day visa once we reach Laos.

So that’s the informative part done with! I hope it’s been insightful!

For both of us, traveling will enable us to continue with our photography, exploring places old, new & exciting. This will form the basis of a body of work that we hope to share with you on this blog & on flickr, updating as we go & using a laptop to edit, backup, skype, email & to book our next room for the night!

With differing styles & approaches to photography we hope to capture a wider range of imagery, as well as two pairs of eyes to keep a look out for interesting moments, inspiration and people.

I have been a Canon user in the past, whereas Helen has taken the Nikon route. They both have their positives & negatives, but have equally provided us with the tools necessary to get the jobs done. Now… here is the issue. Weight! We are both concerned about the weight of our equipment and the size of the bag we will need for our journey. It would be great to take 2.5 – 3kg each in camera equipment (not including a tripod, it’s head and a laptop!) but this would be insane for the length of time we are traveling. We want the cameras but don’t want to become a slave to them every second of every day.

Also these cameras look very conspicuous. They are large, bulky & make you look like a traveling paparazzi. They tire you out very quickly & by the end of the day you really don’t want to be shooting anymore, when the best light of the day could be during early evening hours. Insurance also becomes complicated with these cameras as specialised camera bags are required along with the need for specific padlocks on lockers etc.

Well… a big headache for us both. We don’t want to go all that way & leave our photographic capabilities here in the UK. You don’t need the most expensive cameras to make the best shots, the photographer makes the photograph, not the camera, but at the same time we want to have the best chance of capturing interesting & documentary style photos. Hence, research into cameras that would fit our needs. Film or digital? Medium format, 35mm or 4/3rds? Pinhole?

I very quickly came across the only full frame, non SLR camera out there. The Leica M9. A rangefinder! A small(ish) camera that could produce the images we want but at the same time weigh only 0.8kg including a lens. However they do not come cheap. We would need to sell both sets of our current gear to cover the cost of this camera. Ouch! After doing research & looking at the Leica website I spotted that they do workshops called Leica Akademie which offers a brief introduction & the chance to explore the full potential of what these cameras can offer. We got in touch & booked ourselves into the M9 introduction course.

Below are a few shots that we took during our little exploration of the backstreets of Mayfair: (Leica M9, Summarit-M 50mm f2.5, processed in Lightroom)

In a nutshell we both loved the camera, a different style of photography to what we are used to. We each got to play with an M9 in the street outside the shop in Mayfair. Brett who ran the workshop was great & we would highly recommend the four hour session to anyone interested in these cameras. There were only four of us in the session & we all got to keep the 1Gb memory card from our cameras.

So lots to think about & consider. Also we need a secondary camera that is a good travel companion. More research needed, but looking into the Olympus Pen as a possibility. Time to get the thinking caps on!