We got up at 4.30am and would have been ready to leave by 5am if Helen hadn’t contracted a pretty bad tummy bug over-night, hmmm we weren’t sure if she’d get through the day so in went the Imodium and a re-hydration sachet and we hoped that it wouldn’t spoil things too much. Deciding to take it a little more leisurely than the night before we arrived at Angkor Wat at 5.45am and made our way into the temple site. It was already rammed with tourists all lined up along the front walls, smaller shrines and the lake at the front of the Wat. There must have been at least a thousand people there already, we hung around there for a bit and then decided to go into the temple itself and took in the warmth of the light on the buildings as the sun came up. There weren’t many people inside the grounds of the temple so it was very peaceful and away from the mass of tourists at the front. We walked around the grounds for about an hour and then went back to the front to find that most people had left and were missing the beautiful sight of the sun starting to peep over the huge pagodas in the middle, very strange!

After a croissant or two (for Dave) we rode the 13km journey back to Ta Prohm, this time we were able to get into the temple site. There were quite a few tour groups there but didn’t seem too busy when we walked around the site. This is the one you’ll see in all the photos…the one with the tree routes entangled around the old temple ruins. WOW! It really is an amazing site, they are leaving it to allow the trees and nature make their impressive marks, although there is some construction work going on. We managed to avouch the tour groups by going off in other directions. We ended up spending over an hour at this site and loved it.

Moving on from Ta Prohm we cycled along the route to Ta Keo this time climbing up the steep steps on the side of the temple up towards a tower that takes you 50 metes in height. There are wonderful views from the top and we managed to find ourselves a spot in the shade on the side of one of the towers where we people watched.

Following the route along we cycled through The Victory Gate and parked up at the north-east side of the central area of Angkor Thom taking in the Terrace of Elephants, The Terrace of the Leper King and Phimeanakas. All impressive and in the heat of the midday sun again seemingly missing the tour groups and main bulk of visitors. Following on from this we cycled only a little further to Bayon where we spent around an hour taking in the 216 enormous grinning faces built by the King of the God Kings; Jayavarman VII around the 13th century. It’s hard to imagine these enormous temples being built and the amount of effort t must have taken, each bettering the other it seems impossible that man was able to create these temples one after the other.

Our last stop on the route back to Angkor Wat was Phnom Bakheng and took less than 5 minutes from Bayon. There is a path up a small hill to this temple but as it is the highest temple on the site when we reached the top we were rewarded with fine views across the forests over other temple sites and Angkor Wat was creeping above the tree tops. This would be an ideal place to see the sunrise or set over the area as there are good views from both sides, the only downside being that nearly all tour groups will head there at around 4.30pm to get a good spot for the sunset. It’s not a huge temple either so we imagine it would be very cramped and difficult to get a good spot, so we left at just after 4pm and already the buses were starting to park up and the food stalls were waiting in anticipation.

On our way back we stopped off at Angkor Wat one last time and pestered some tourists into taking some photos of ourselves as all day either one of us was photographing the other and we had none together. We stayed for a short while and then decided to head back to Siem Reap, it had been a long day and we’d managed much more than we thought we would have been able to, Helen was also ready for some rest.

Back in Siem Reap we once again ventured to the Blue Pumpkin to stock up on breakfast, ate out with Doug and Emma and then walked around the very contrived, tourist night market before going back to get ready for the next off. We did enjoy Siem Reap with our main reason being that Angkor Wat is a very impressive and amazing site to visit, Siem Reap itself though very much felt like a Greek holiday Island resort. The market was almost too clean, the night-market appeared to be made from some kind of film set and most restaurants charge a lot for the pleasure. We were happy to be moving on.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

Posting a blog post everyday which involves writing a mini diary and editing through copious amounts of photos takes up lots of time. Therefore we have decided that as we are a few weeks behind we are going to try and condense the posts into multiple days. Also here in China we have access to most websites that we need for general use, however there is no Twitter or Facebook, so we will be very quiet on these social networks until we leave China in early 2011.

So here we go…on our second day in Beijing we were on a mission to find out about trips and local sights aside from the more obvious ones. We obtained a street map from Templeside that gave us pretty good bearings on where we were located plus Frank had informed us of the nearest tube stops, bus stops and the like. What we didn’t really think about was the distance it takes to get from one block to another on foot. We had intended to go to the China Cultural Centre (CCC) to find out about trips and cooking classes on offer but several tube stops later, one taxi journey and a walk 20 minutes in the wrong direction we redirected to 798. We had intended to visit the 798 Art district early on in our visit here anyway so it wasn’t too much of a change of plan.

Although we feel that the many art critics and cynics out there would refer to 798 as art tourism, it still offers an eclectic mix of contemporary art and culture that isn’t so apparent anywhere else in the city. 798 is an old factory complex that has been renovated into around 70 or so art spaces, galleries, studios, cafes, quirky gift shops and restaurants. We thought it was pretty cool, although perhaps not all of the art on show is to our taste and perhaps some is trend for trends sake it does take you away from more traditional aspects of Chinese art and culture and perhaps brings it more inline with the graffiti lined walls of Berlin city. We do love Berlin though so that one is always going to be tough to beat!! But in our minds it did the trick and we quickly forgot about the directionless walk around the city. We picked up a mandarin phrase book which we think will come in very handy indeed whilst we are in China and we photographed buildings, spaces and art on show. (Copyright isn’t really an issue here as you can pretty much photograph any piece of art on show). The photography gallery showcased some interesting compilation work and we liked the Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art, although it seemed much of the space was closed off for an event. We did manage to find our way back to our new home that evening and cooked ourselves our first meal in the Hutong.

The next day we decided to stay a little more local and our first port of call was to visit the Peking International Youth Hostel. Helen was determined to pick up some information from a hostel and we also wanted to print out some information and directions to show taxi drivers. As a general rule they wont stop to listen to where you want to go but will look at the map or if you have where you want to go in Chinese written down bingo you’re in luck! Sometimes even if you speak Chinese but look western they wont listen!! So with that in mind we had some printing to do and our reason for going to the hostel was that we feel by being in the apartment, yes it’s great because we are in with a local community but you don’t really get to meet other travelers or get the best kind of advice. So if you can find out where the nearest YHA is often they will have the info and the passing travelers to meet!! We went away with our print outs, some info on tours and enjoyed an amazing ginger honey tea!!

Within walking distance of the YHA is Beihai Park. It costs around £2.5 to get in and there are a few temples and pagodas in the park. It was a really sunny day and the sky was pretty blue so the white pagoda on the top of the hill really did shine. It was a really enjoyable walk up through the temples and to the top where you have views across the Forbidden City, Beihai lake and beyond. We spent the best part of the day here and also came across the Chrysanthemum exhibition. Something of an anticlimax but it did offer some great photographic opportunities and the low afternoon light was perfect for this.

On our third morning at the penthouse apartment (he he) we ventured to the very local farmers market to pick up some fruit and veg and to generally take in the atmosphere that contains the place. The market sells not only fruit and veg supplies but household cleaning products, gas cookers, bikes, meat, fish, tea and clothes, alongside which was street vendors selling food to eat there and then or noodles to cook, meat off the bone and so on. It’s a very local place and it was loads of fun buying our grocery shopping. We were amazed at how cheap the fresh fruit and veg is to buy. for less than 20 pence we bought a bulb of garlic, one green pepper and two chili peppers…they have money that looks more like monopoly money for values under 1 yuan. We were moaned at for only buying 1 or 2 of any item. Still we went away filling our fridge with good quality fresh food. We explored the local hutong further before heading back for more catch up time on editing.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)