We opted for a minivan to take us to Luang Prabang, it cost 110,000 kip as opposed to the 90,000 kip fee for a VIP bus, we’d heard that the roads are very windy indeed from Vang Vieng and we figured it would be quicker option for us too. Corrinne was still in tow so we all travelled together to the north. The roads were very up and down, perhaps more up than down but the views were amazing, anyone who get’s to do this journey in their own time is in for a real treat as we would have loved to stop along the way to take photographs. We did get one chance at a food stop area high up in the mountains, and yes this time we mean mountains.

The mini van got into Luang Prabang at around 4pm and we stopped at a bus station just outside of town so we had the customary bartering for a tuk-tuk to take us into town. We roughly knew where we wanted to stay so when we were dropped off it was a case of seeing watt was available. Accommodation does cost more in Luang Prabang unless you’re prepared to stay in the dingiest guesthouses, which to be fair we’re not. So we had a look around and found a place where we could all get a room for 100,000 kip/room. The guesthouse we wanted to stay at The Oudomphone Guesthouse was full and there outside sat Floss enjoying a beer, we knew there would be a room free the next day as she was checking out so later on we went to arrange a room for 80,000 kip per night. We enjoyed the local night market and some reasonably priced food on the river front along with Floss and Corrinne, followed by a trip to one of the bars where there was an Asian fashion show taking place.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

Over the next few days our stay in Luang Prabang saw us take in the world heritage site over and over again, it can’t be helped as temples and old French colonial buildings are everywhere. There are several temples and monasteries throughout town, along with a few up on top of hills looking out over the landscape. We opted for this one later in the day for sunset along with lots of other tourists so we didn’t stay for too long. We ate tuna and salad baguettes, freshly prepared on the street stalls, we drank many a cheap fruit shake and enjoyed the cheap 10,000 kip all you can eat street style buffet. As well as going cheap we ate at a very fancy western restaurant at the opposite end of town from the market heading out towards the older temples, the greek salad and pizza was some of the best western food we’ve eaten yet. The Joma bakery also did us proud in providing very good bagels which we bought for breakfast most days.

We got up at 5.30am one morning to watch the monks take their alms from locals and tourists offering food. This is a very traditional and important part of the monks day, and we do appreciate the history and significance of the offerings. However here it has become a huge tourist attraction with many a person shoving cameras and flashes into their faces. We were really surprised by this as are told over and over again about the etiquette involved in this particular ceremony, we don’t doubt that some of the offerings are genuine but it really does appear on the surface to be more of a tourist event now than anything else. Okay so we went to have a look and took some of our own photographs but we kept our distance and observed the tourist onslaught, of which some are also monks!!

We shopped at the slightly touristy night market, and people watched as they bargained for their goods. We strolled the streets looking for charms to photograph of which we were presented with many. One day wasn’t quite so successful and saw Helen come off her bicycle, boo!! She manages to take the skin off her toes, bash her left knee and right ribs, she was a little upset and worse for wear for a few days with good bandaging to show the extent of her wounds!! Silly bikes with no gears and cycling in flip flops on hilly roads, a lesson to be learned by us all!

So with a wounded soldier in tow, we managed to take a tuk-tuk to the most famous waterfall in the area along with Corrinne. We paid 150,000 kip between us to leave when we wanted to (this can be done cheaper the more people there are). The waterfalls are very nice indeed, clear turquoise and green water, big drops and pools to swim in, the main drawback is that everyone goes there, but it is a beautiful place to spend a few hours so we still recommend it if you can get there early enough. We also used the time to catch up on the blog and use the time to fully relax, taking in a few more cafes around town and crossed over to a little shack opposite the top end of Luang Prabang, where we looked out over the Mekong on onto our last sunset in Laos.

We booked a flight with Treasure Travel based on the main street in the centre of town moving away from the night market and towards the older monasteries. They did us a nice deal and included a taxi pick up to the airport and the flight ticket with taxes for $140 each. After asking around a lot this was the best price we got and were happy to pay this amount, it also mean’t we would get a 30 day visa upon entry into Thailand with less faffing and expense on the other side to arrange visa runs. We did miss the epic Luang Prabang to Chiang Rai 2 day boat journey which we’ve heard is a great travelling experience, but we were more than happy to get to Chiang Mai at a quicker pace after many a long bus, boat and train journey on our travels so far.

We enjoyed our time in Laos and were surprised at how developed the country is compared to Cambodia, we got the impression that Thailand has a large influence over here in terms of trade and business. Cost of living is going up and the cities are very well maintained and not over crowded whatsoever.

We said we were never going to go to Vang Vieng, we’ve been told many a horror story of people ended up injured from their tubing and partying experiences and we thought we’d just skip it and explore another part of the country. However chatting to fellow travellers we got the impression that Vang Vieng offers more than the opportunity to go tubing down the river and get inebriated on toxic substances.

We took a bus journey to Vang Vieng which was around 5 hours from the capital and arrived at a decent enough time to start looking for accommodation. There was a group of us looking and we all managed to get into our first choice La Jardin Organique, Dave and I ended up sharing with Corrine to lower our costs for a few days and so it was 100,000 kip between the 3 of us which wasn’t a bad deal at all considering the costs in Vientiane. They have a good selection of accommodation here with bungalows, guesthouse style rooms and cheaper rooms for 40,000 with shared bathrooms, also the owners are very accommodating indeed and the female owner certainly seems to be the one negotiating prices with tourists over her husband!

With accommodation sorted early on we set off in search of finding some kind of trek/kayak trip that would cater to our needs. We went to a few companies along the main back street of Vang Vieng and found a company located around 10 minutes walk up the street from Le Jardin Organique on the right hand side, there are so many but these guys offered a 2 day tour that included hiking, caves, waterfalls and kayaking. The more of us that were interested in booking the tour then the price would come down, so after a good mint and lemon shake at the organic cafe in town we opted to book the trip and later on found out that Doug and Emma would also be joining us so that would shave off some of the cost. The total came to roughly £50 for the two of us to do this trip with food and one night’s accommodation included. That evening we went back to the organic cafe and enjoyed some good home-cooked soups and curries.

We met the next morning at 8.30 am for the tour and hopped onto a song thaw along with others who were going on a one day kayak and cave tour of the area. We all got off at the same point but the kayakers went one way and we the other. We started with a Buddhist cave in a village around 15km north of Vang Vieng along the Nam Song river, the cave is called Phu Kham cave and hosts a reclining Buddha along with a shrine and other symbolic Buddhist monuments. We were there for 5 minutes or so and our guide then started the trek. The first part of the trek was very steep indeed and took us up a karst peak, through dense jungle like foliage and we had a few clear moments where we could look out over the area, but otherwise it was quite hard work and in the heat we sweated lots. The walk led us to another cave, this one being much more interesting than the first, with no other tourists around for a start which is always a treat! We were led through one part of the cave where new stalagmites and stalactites were forming and the light shining into the cave was beautiful. Our guide started to get a barbecue going and said lunch would be around15-20 minutes later. So we explored the cave, Doug enjoyed the spa like water coming from the river and we cooled down after the heat of the walk.

Lunch was really simple but very good indeed; barbecued kebabs with vegetable fried rice, a baguette and bananas, it certainly filled us up and did the trick. After lunch we continued to walk through the secret eden forest area which is a valley in the middle of the peaks where no-one goes through other than the villagers as it’s surrounded by steep peaks all around. It was once an area where a hill tribe village lived and no-one knew of their existence until the Indo-Chinese war and then they left for more mainstream areas…we do try to remember this information when it’s told to us by our guides! We then carried on back up the peak and out to the other side, followed by a further hours walk to the eco-lodge built next to the river where we had stopped earlier in the day to drop off our bags. We got into the river to cool down and waited for our rooms to be organised, there seemed to be some confusion as to where our accommodation was but after a while we found ourselves in a wooden lodge which was simple but did the trick. We enjoyed a good local meal cooked by our hosts, accompanied by our guide Noi and this was followed by some card games.

Another good part of the tour was that we could choose our own breakfast from the menu at the eco-lodge, this was a first on a tour!! We had a bit of a wait for the tour guide and kayaks to turn up and whilst doing so the rain decided to come down, our fist rain shower in a long long time, it was really refreshing. The rains don’t last very long so we were able to get into the kayaks and start the first leg of this part of the tour. This time we were heading in the direction of Vang Vieng as we would eventually land up there later in the afternoon. The first part of the kayak took only half and hour and we got off to start trekking again, we were all aching a little from the steep climbs of the trek the day before but today we were promised it wouldn’t be so steep! This was the case though and after half an hour of walking we landed at our third cave of the trip, it was huge, we were able to walk through one entrance under the peak and out to the other side. During the wet season water comes crashing through from a river located further up the hill and right now it was completely empty with only large tree branches and trunks as evidence that water does come through at great speeds and volume. It was very cool indeed, we walked with head torches and took in the scale of the cave, not as bit as one’s we’d seen in Tha Khaek but impressive in other ways. On the other side we climbed out into the sunshine and our guide asked us if we wanted to go to another cave or to the waterfall up the hill. We opted for the waterfall and began the walk upwards. It didn’t take too long to reach though and when we got there we met a few other people on tours, including Ann who we’d met in Tha Khaek. We enjoyed another dip in a deep pool, it was much colder than the river temperature so it wasn’t long before we were sat warming up on rocks and enjoying another kebab and rice style feast.

The last part of the tour was kayaking all the way back to Vang Vieng, it was around 13km or so to get back and we took in a few rapids along the way, they were pretty tame though but we had fun going through them all the same. We passed through where the tubing starts and were faced with hundreds of happy go lucky backpackers enjoying the Vang Vieng tubing and zip lining into the water. It is a pretty mental site, from the peacefulness of the valley and mountains to an Ibiza style day by day party, music blasting out and everyone getting wrecked, really odd! As we got closer to Vang Vieng we passed more and more tubers coming to the end of their little adventures and we landed at the bay just where La Jardin Oraganique is located, perfect for us. We had already pre-booked a room there so we were able to check in straight away, they had an even cheaper room for us 80,000 kip between the 3 of us and it wasn’t any worse than the last other than it wasn’t in a bungalow.

Later on we attain town at a Lonely Planet recommended restaurant which didn’t really live up to it’s reputation, although opting for the local barbecue was the best option, for those after western tastes don’t expect to be in a rush. Still this is Laos after all!

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

The  King of Bus, VIP to Vientiane from Tha Khaek was worth paying the extra 30,000 kip for as although we did stop quite a bit on the journey it wasn’t as often as the local bus and it was more comfortable. At lease for us it was, they still pack on as many people as they can even on the Kong of Bus! We left Tha Khaek at 9.30am and arrived at around 2pm, whilst en route we met Flo an Corrinne and shared a tuk-tuk with them into town, it took around 10 minutes to get into town from the southern bus station and cost us 70,000 kip. We’ve been informed that a tuk-tuk ride should generally cost 10,000 kip each for shortish journeys. Arriving in the centre of Vientiane our aim was to get into one of the guesthouses up by the river recommended in the Lonely Planet but it was along with many other guesthouses already full. We searched around for a while and the cost of a room was more than we were anticipating, so once we got it in our head that we would struggle to find anything for less than 100,000 we settled for a family room at a Chinese guesthouse down the road from the national museum. We had 2 rooms, 4 beds, a bathroom and a large balcony, Dave managed to bargain the cost of the room from 600,000 kip for 2 nights stay to 500,000 kip. This would be split between us all and was more than we were wanting to pay but we had a good space and a few friends to join us.

We walked along the Mekong riverside once more and sat by the statue of Anuvong whilst we watched another lovely sunset. Later that night we went out for food as a group and Doug and Emma rejoined us having last caught up with them in Don Det. We ate some good street-style food, which was more costly than we think real street food should be, but we figure many people are setting up street restaurants and charging prices similar to the restaurants themselves…defeats the object of being street food we thinks. However aside from this the food was very a great Laos Barbecue style set up, grilled fish, meats, and other delights for us to feast upon. Back at the apartment we sat on the balcony, chatted and shared our photos with Flo and Corrinne.

Our second day in the Laos capital saw us hire some bikes and go off to explore the area. We followed the Lonely Planet’s walking tour for a while and landed at several beautiful Thai-style wats and shrines and as Flo and Corrinne are also keen photographer’s we looked like a camera club on tour of the temples. It was good to explore and we took in most of the temples in the town as well as going up and down the same street a few times to get our bearings. We ended up at the Arch-de-Tiromph style monument a few kilometers out of the centre, positioned in the middle of a roundabout and made to appear a little akin to its French friend, along with several other sightseers we walked around the fountains and sat in the shade before venturing further on our bike tour. We cycled via the market which wasn’t especially exciting so we ventured to a bakery for some decent food and then went in search of a swimming pool.

There are supposed to be 3-4 dotted around town, 2 of which are public, one is in a hotel and the other is in the grounds of the Australian Embassy. This last one is supposed to be the best place for swimming in town, however when we got there we were told it wasn’t open to the public, so around we turned and tried to find others listed in the Lonely Planet. The second pool has been torn down and is now a development site and the third…to our luck was open and had many people splashing around inside. This one is the National swimming pool of Laos, and we were certainly impressed by the thong wearing ladies walking around… how national was this place??

We sunbathed for a while, read our books and had a dip in the pool, by coming in through the side entrance we seemed to have skipped the payment part, so we managed to enjoy a free dip too! Later on we enjoyed a cheap-ish vegetarian curry on the river front at Naz’s (they tend to pop up in the towns and cities here in Laos) and opted to chill out for the rest of the night.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We woke up early to the sound of eager cockerels the first going off at around 4.30am. It wasn’t the best night’s sleep with a very hard mattress indeed and snoring echoing throughout our eco-shack. We had a cooked Laos style breakfast in the form of noodle soup, eggs and fruit, Helen was getting her appetite back and starting to feel a little more like herself again. We left the village at 8.30am and began to trek once more through forest land, past more karst peaks and made our way up and down a hilly terrain which required a little more effort than the flatness of the day before. We had a few descriptions of plant-life and the area and we walked for a good 4 hours before arriving at the second village for a home cooked lunch. We sat inside someone’s home at the back of a shop and chilled out awaiting more food, it was really kitsch inside with old wardrobes, bright wall colours, retro tiles and clothes everywhere. It was a good little stop for photographing! More rice, more soup and stir-fried egg and we were all ready for a nap. No time for this though as we were waiting for a pick up to take us to the Blue Lagoon.

On the usual itinerary there is a tractor ride involved whereby you get pulled along on a cart by one of their home-made style tractors; not like ours at home. This didn’t happen for us because there were 8 in our group and the tractor wouldn’t cope with all of the western weight. So we had a mini-van take us to the lagoon instead with music blasting out of the over-hyped stereo. It took around 15 minutes to drive to the lagoon, packed in on a bumpy ride. The lagoon lives up to its name and is a very intense copper sulfate looking colour, it’s hard to believe that the lagoon is natural as it seems more like a chemical phenomenon. There were no scientific descriptions available from the tour guides only spiritual ones. It’s quite deep and plays host to shoals of large fish. Most of the group plunged in for a cooling swim after we walked around the edge of the lagoon, we both decided to photograph and observed from the sidelines. We hope the photographs show the intensity of the colours and the subtle reflections that glowed.

After a group photo we continued in the minivan to a point from where we walked a further 2 km to meet our pick up trip. At around 3pm we met our pick up back to Tha Khaek and we were back in the town at just before 5pm with an en-route detour to the bus station so that we could book bus tickets for the next day of travel. Back in Tha Khaek we checked into the Travel Lodge along with the rest of the group and settled in for a relaxing evening of food, chat and planning. It’s a really good spot for meeting other backpackers and they have a good outdoor seated area. We would recommend staying there and the dorms are good value for money if you’re on a budget, we paid 50,000 kip for a double with shared bathroom.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We were picked up at 8.30am or so from our guesthouse and much to our delight there were an extra 4 people booked on the trip and so we received $10 refund each off the original trip price. We were able to take our main bags and leave them at the Tourist Office securely whilst we would b out on the trip, after dropping them off we went on our way to the first stage of the trek.

There were 8 of us in total and we were a good mix of people with 2 cheeky tour guides carrying our food from place to place. We took a Song Thaw for about an hour towards the national park and stopped at a wooden bridge, this presented us with a problem; we couldn’t go any further in the vehicle over the bridge with all the food and people packed inside of it, so we off loaded, carried the food and walked to the village around 1km away. When we got there Mii was waiting with a scooter and took the food from us in preparation for the lunch-time spot.

After a short introduction to the village and our guides we walked for around an hour and a half and landed at our first cave of the tour. It wasn’t so big in size but was good enough to explore with head torches. Onwards from there we continued to walk through forest and farmland and ended at the lunch time spot which was at another cave, here there was also a lagoon going into the cave and so everyone stripped off and went for a swim. Helen wasn’t feeling up to getting into the water and was still surviving off re-hydration drinks. The lunch was served on a long picnic bench and we fought off the flies whilst eating barbecued fish, chicken, sticky rice and vegetables, it was okay but the flies didn’t help! We stopped at this spot for over and hour and then continued to walk to another cave. This cave was very impressive, for 15 minutes we all sat or snoozed letting the lunch settle in the peacefulness of the cave. Dave went off to explore a little and photographed the rest of us snoozing away. The tour-guides then led us through one part of the cave guided by torch-lights and out into another much larger section of the cave. There was water and a sand-bank that led towards a large exit point. At one side of the cave there are steps leading up to a Buddah shrine and fantastic views across the cave to the other-side where we snoozed. We were told that once a year there is a festival that happens in this cave and around 3000 people go there to celebrate for 3 days, as always in Laos style, we could only imagine what this would be like.

After leaving the cave we walked another 5 km to a Stupa and then a further 1km to the village where we were staying that night. The village farmed tobacco and we were surprised at the presentation of the village homes in comparison to those we had seen and stayed at in Cambodia. There are around 90 people living in this village with mostly young children under the age of 11. When we asked where all the older children were the response was that in the dry season they go to the town or city to work and send the money back to their family, coming back in the wet season to farm. The children were good fun to photograph but we got the impression they’re used to westerners coming into their village as they showed off, grabbed at the cameras and were quite cheeky. Still it’s all good for the purpose of photographing.

Our accommodation comprised of an eco-style hut with great views from the village of the surrounding mountains and we enjoyed chatting on the balcony of the hut whilst the sun went down. The bed’s were made for us with mosquito nets and bed covers provided. We will say one thing though; always carry a sleeping bag liner or inner sheet as they don’t clean their bed linen very well and we noticed a few bugs crawling around!

We played Putong with the locals (boules) and managed to beat the French couple from our group, one of whom plays it every summer with his brother!! Not bad! The locals cooked us dinner and we all ate together along with them on the balcony of the guesthouse. Later that evening we participated in a traditional Laos Bacai ceremony, this involved the group sitting around a circular table with a candle and flower arrangement in the middle. For each person there was a portion of sticky rice and chocolate bar that we would accept as a gift.  The head of the village came to each of us one by one accompanied by his two deputy leaders, he prayed for us, spoke of good things to come and all of us were predicted we would ‘live long liiiife’. He placed a cotton bracelet on our wrist and the gift was in the pal of our hands. Following him his deputy’s did the same so we ended with 3 bracelets each and many many wishes of a long life!

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

The tummy bug came back to haunt Helen and once again she was caught on a day of travel…always carry Imodium as it comes in very handy for those long bus journeys!! So it wasn’t the best night and we were a little worried about the journey as our next destination; Tha Khaek was a good 8 hours or more away. Still onwards we travelled as sometimes just getting on with it needs to be done, especially when we’re on a time schedule of sorts. The first part of the journey was the boat back over to the mainland where we were directed to a bus carrying passengers to Pakse. It took around 2 hours to reach Pakse and when we arrived at the bus station we were moved onto another local bus with one other traveller, Floss. The middle aisle on the second bus was full of rice bags so we took a few seats at the front and waited…and waited. It was another hour and a half before leaving the bus station with more locals boarding as we drove out of the bus station.

It was a very long bus journey indeed, we don’t really know how many times we stopped, started, the bus driver got off for food, more locals got on, but by the end of the journey the middle bags of rice were loaded with people all the way through the bus. These journeys are always the one’s we remember though and we definitely recommend taking local buses when you’ve got the energy. We arrived at Tha Khaek bus station at around 11.15 pm, along with Floss we picked up a tuk-tuk into town which is about 4km away. The tuk-tuk was packed with a family, two other men, one large epson printer, us and our bags! The Travel Lodge, our first pick was closed up and full with some guests sleeping on the floor, so we drove around the town and the driver took us to a guest house where there was one room available. Floss took it and we decided to go in with her, it was an old office that had two single beds, one fan and polystyrene around the walls to insulate it. There was also a strong stench of garlic, but as it was now midnight and only costing 50,000 kip between us all we took it for the night.

The following morning we packed up and walked around looking for other possible, affordable places to stay whilst en-route to the Tourist Information Center. We don’t always go to these places as often the tourist information can be less than helpful but we had read in the Lonely Planet that they offer well-priced eco-tours in the area. There was a hotel a few houses down from the office on the right and they had rooms available with en-suite for 50,000 kip/room, the 3 of us decided we would move here. Walking a little further up the street we found the Tourist Information office and it was closed, with a sign saying opening times 1.30-4.30pm, we hung around for a few minutes and along came a man on a scooter, he unlocked the office and in we went. They have a good brochure listing 1 to 3 day treks and sights in the region, our main purpose of visiting Tha Khaek was to visit the mighty Konglor cave, but to do this as a one day trip would involve a lot of time spent in a mini-van or on a bus and the 3 day trip with the cave included was no longer on offer. So we settled for a 2 day trek in the Phu-Hin Bun national park where we would walk for 2 days, visit a few caves, stay in a local village and visit striking lagoons. This was pretty good value for money at around $82 each for 3+ people, Ann from France arrived at the same time and booked the trip along with Floss and ourselves and we hoped more people would book on for the following day as we would get some money back in this instance.  In comparison Green Discovery Laos who also operate tours in this area of the country are nearly double if not triple the amount of the tours offered by the tourist information, they do seem to offer some very good options such as 3 day kayak, biking and trekking but they are priced way above our budget and cost more than the higher priced tours we did back in Vietnam.

We moved to the new hotel and spent the remainder of the day exploring Tha khaki; visited the market, where Helen bought a piece of traditional Laos–style material that would work as a sarong for bathing purposes, and we walked up to the Travel Lodge to arrange accommodation there for our last night in Tha Khaek. We took a back-lane around the town and watched the locals get home from work, kids playing in the street and many people offering us their hello’s along the way. We stopped off for some western food at the main square in the centre of town and then walked back to the hotel to rest and pack for the following day. Unfortunately for the rest of the evening Helen’s tummy bug hit an all time high of toilet visits and restlessness, we were worried about the trip and vowed to get some anti-bacterial antibiotics in the morning.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

We stayed in a lovely, relaxing bungalow for more reasons that simply having somewhere nice to stay, it also meant we could take some time out to relax and write. So on this day we managed to catch up on Cambodia and wrote whilst sitting across from the little island we swam out to the day before and would again voyage out to later that day. We took a break for lunch and ventured up to one of the restaurants a little further up the sunset strip from us in the Don Khon direction. We found a great place with many people sat chatting away so we thought we’d join them for a while. One guy in particular was chatting to us about the Olympus Pen camera and discussing the delights of traveling for a year, he also had a link with Helen’s family having worked at SCOPE for 10 years in the campaigns department, he’d dealt with her great Aunt Hilda several times (this alone is a massive ask in itself) and knew of the late Chris Davies (her son) very well indeed. A small world this is! So we enjoyed some great pumpkin burgers, tasty fruit shakes and good chat before returning to our little shack to inspire further writing.

A much anticipated and refreshing swim was calling as the heat was very intense indeed, so we ended our writing stint, swam and sunbathed and then got ready to enjoy a Valentines night at The Veggie Patch restaurant. We enjoyed a lovely evening with some of the best food we’ve eaten yet on our travels!! We enjoyed a fine feast of Pumpkin Gnocchi with an aubergine and tomato sauce, salad and fresh bread accompanied by free cocktails all evening. We also bought a piece of chocolate cake which was pretty delicious too! They had a few games out and we sat and chatted to others enjoying the food and location. The Veggie Patch is well hidden down on the sunset side with no other restaurants or bungalows around and the owners from France and Australia are very lovely indeed. They spend a lot of time preparing each dish for the day as well as tending to their much loved vegetable patches. We spent most of the evening there until closing and then made our way over to a beach party back on the small beach at the tip of Don Det, it wasn’t however that great so we just decided to make our way back to our little hut.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)

The journey from Kratie to the border crossing was very smooth indeed. We chose the option of a mini-van ticket for $14 each, this picked us up at 8am along with a few other passengers and continued onto Stung Treng for an hour and a half where we were picking up the bigger bus to the border. We only had one hiccup in the form of a flat tyre which occurred due to a big wooden stake going right through it! This delayed us by 20 minutes or so but to our surprise and relief the bus was waiting for us on the highway and so on we hopped and off to the border we went.

It took a further 45 minutes to get to the border crossing at Trabaeng Kriel and around an hour to get through an leave on the other side. The main problem we encountered was the request for extra dollars on exit and entry sides, they say its for the admin, some say its for the stamp so we had an extra 4$ each to pay on top of our visa fee. The visa fee is another thing to mention here, we previously thought we needed to get our visas issued in Cambodia as had read that there were no crossings from Cambodia to Laos where you can get a visa on arrival. Whilst in Phnom Penh we spent $45 each on a Loas visa, however this border does now issue visas on arrival and we could have saved around $8 each, it’s not too much in the whole scale of things but a little premature on our part all the same.

So after a few bribes we sat on the bus for around half an hour before setting off to Ban Nakasang where we picked up a boat over to Don Det Island part of the 4000 Islands. All transfers and boat trips were included in the bus ticket from Kratie, even though they don’t write anything on the ticket it’s like an unspoken deal, money just goes from one driver to the next with the last person being the boat driver. It only took 20 minutes if that to get to Don Det and then we were in Laos at the 4000 Islands. We walked down the sunrise side to start with as we’d read that it is a good option in the Lonely Planet but already bungalows were getting busy and the one’s we liked the best we already full. We opted for a cheap 30,000 kip bungalow which was pretty basic, wood, a window, a mosquito net and a very hard bed, the river below had seen better days too, so we decided we’d do one night here and later on go on a search for somewhere more comfortable and a little more of what we had in mind. This didn’t take very long as we found a lovely group of turquoise painted bungalows next door to Mr B’s sunset bungalow resort. They were full that night so we endeavored to come back the next morning and see what we could get.

So with that in our minds we went for some cake at the Australian Bakery on the sunrise side and then walked around the perimeter of the Island taking in the sunset as we did. It’s not that big an Island and it’s very easily navigated by bikes, the paths are dry and sandy and you get good views along the way. We made it back to our guesthouse and proceeded to head out for dinner choosing the Mama Tanon Cafe for a relatively well priced meal.

The next day we went back over to our choice of accommodation and as we got there two girls were checking out of a bungalow looking right over the Mekong river, this would be perfect. We managed to reserve the room, went back to collect our bags and then moved into the new shack. This was much better, with two hammocks, the bungalow itself was detached with a private balcony, the bed was much more comfortable and the mosquito net less scanty. We decided we’d stay an extra 2 nights on Don Det.

We rented a bike for the day from the guesthouse at 8000kip for a days rental, we set off for Don Khon and were surprised by the 20,000 kip fee to cross over the bridge from one Island to the other. A tourist fee…the locals only have to pay 5,000 kip each. We cycled the route most traveled by tourists in the area and made our way to the Li Phi waterfalls having to pay a further parking fee for the bikes, the ticket to the Island does cover the cost of getting into the waterfall though. The falls are impressive even during the dry season however you cannot get that close to them, for safety reasons, but it would be nice to feel some watery fury. We stopped for some lunch, a rest from the sun and had ordered some fresh spring rolls with sticky rice as we were rather low on money. They tasted really good and we were both equally impressed.

After collecting the bikes from the makeshift car park we headed towards the beach. You can head towards an area where you can get a boat to go dolphin spotting or as we decided, ride to the end of the island and see what was there. A great view across of the Mekong greeted us. We rode back to Don Det and headed into the river for a cooling dip, swimming across to a sandbank island and then watch the sunset from our little bungalow. Evening meal was Indian cuisine at a cheap restaurant on the high street not far from the landing beach of the boats, make sure you are there before 6.30pm as it gets very busy and waiting times can be as long as 1.5hrs! The food was cheapish and fairly good value, portion sizes are modest with a good selection of naan breads.

(Leica M9, Summicron-M 50mm f2.0 & Olympus PEN, 17mm f2.8 & 100mm f2.8, processed in Lightroom 3)